phoneguyinpgh
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phoneguyinpgh
I remember reading an article earlier this year about the math of being able to notice the difference in resolution, I don’t remember the exact figures, but the author infered that you would need a display the size of the side of a house to notice a difference sitting 15 feet away.
4K and 8K are what movie theaters use, I don’t think you will be able to notice that increase in resolution in your average living room or game room.
I personally think this is just more marketing to get people to buy a new TV. Since 3D hasn’t really taken off the way HD did, they will now offfer SUPER-HD!!(4k) And then SUPER-DUPER-HD!!(8k)
Also, 4K will require more processor power for new codecs (I think it’s H265) that will have to squash the data stream more and still need more bandwidth wether delivered via OTA, Sat, cable or SUPER-BluRay disc. Oh, and new BluRay players too. What about the surround sound standard, will we increase to 12~20 audio channels?
I personally am content w/ 1080p and would be more than satisfied if the vendors just worked on making the best 1080p display they could. Pick one thing and do the best you can at it.
I ended up getting a used Eye1 since the Spyder doesn’t seem to be available anymore. No software, just the sensor but I downloaded what I needed from their website. & yes watching the hockey games @ my friend’s house will be annoying, but I can always allign their TV for them and my dad’s and my sister’s etc….
Aaron, I alligned both my TVs last night, and what a difference it made. My Sharp LED-LCD before alligning was putting out so much blue it was off the chart. Once alligned all the colors look so much better. My LG LCD has an expert mode that lets you adust the color ballance every 10%, so I did. The data set I got after that allignment shows that btween 20% and 100% my deltaE is below 1!! After Alligning both w/ the BluRay test patterns I used the test patterns mentioned on this sites guide and set the bightness and contrast properly on the HTPCs. Yes it cost $250> but the results I think are well worth it.
I am using a variant of the NZXT case with 8 drives thus far. No complaints.
I would have to answer no to both questions. I would go with a brand name I trust for reliabillity and read user reviews to make my choice.
I will just have to bite the USB connector and pony up the money I guess.
Yes, the errors would add together but I don’t think there would be any way to eliminate that. I have both my HPTCs set for YCbCr pixel format and did a rough calibration with the files mentioned in your guide. This is much deeper since it is setting the correct color temp which is something I have not been able to do yet. The sensors mentioned in the other guide; one isn’t available anymore (atleast not on Amazon) and the other is showing open box only, any suggestions for sensors?
That is a great guide. I have a question… I am assuming it wouild be best to calibrate the display as described w/ a standalone DVD/BluRay player and to then calibrate your HTPCs GPU with the now correctly callibrated display?
Also some bad news for current users.
http://www.engadget.com/2012/06/28/verizon-fios-tv-cablecard-restrictions-copy-once/
I hate to dash your hopes, but VZ has halted all future FIOS deployment. If your local municipality has already given VZ a franchise then you will eventually get it. But if they are not negotiatiing any new franchises.
A hardware fix would prolly be the best. I did the registry fix you mentioned Aaron, it had minnimal effect. I still had flashing only on certain broadcasts. That was a motivation for me to rebuild both of my systems. I haven’t seen any flahsing and much less judder with the A4-3400. That is a very very good CPU/GPU (or APU) for a dedicated HTPC that isn’t going to be used for any hi powered computer work.
The switching issue, for me, cause the brightness of the image to flash. Mikinho explained that it’s an incompatability between the MS MPEG decoder and the MPEG encoder the network or cable company is using. I only observed it on certain networks or certain shows and it could be quite anoying.
You can acctually see it by pressing “411” then “info” on a media center remote. This brings up details pages for the stream you’re viewing (live or recorded). If you keep pressing your right navigation button untill you get to the last page of the details, at the bottom will be the frame rate. If it is bouncing between 59 and 29, that is the switching we are talking about. I can see it switching even now with my new systems but it doesn’t manifest itself as the brightness flashing I had with the 4550 cards. I do sometimes notice some minor hiccups with the A4-3400 but nothing is nearly as bad as it was.
I used both the 430GT and a 6570. The switching issues are there for the 6570, but the effects are not nearly as bad as with a 4550 that I previously had. A 6570 would be a very good investment.
The 430GT however, did not have the switching issues the 4550 did, but it’s SD performance was terrible. All drivers were up to date etc., but the image was unacceptable. I upgraded to a 6570 and all was well.
Just recently I completely re-built both my HTPCs. I used AMD A4-3400 and SSD for the OS. Performance for the past month has been more than good for live TV, recorded TV, HD and SD material. No issues thus far.
Michael,
I have this issue on occasion too. My tuners are networked from WHS2011 using an AMD Phenom II X4 and my HTPCs are using AMD A4-3400 APUs. Which hot fixes would be applicable?
Nice, clean and fairly simple. I prefer HTPC cases that look like CE equipment. I would hide the USB port behind a door. Seeing that is a dead give away that it is a computer case. Hiding it makes visitors to your house say “Computer?? I don’t see any computer? Where’s the computer??” With the large clean face an upgrade model could have a VFD, LCD or OLED display, though I’ve never been able to get one to work to my satisfaction w/ any of my HTPCs.
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