Aaron Ledger
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Josh,
You’ve got to isolate the issue. I’d start where Mikinho suggests and that is with your cabling as that is the most likely cause. Remove any unnecessary splits and terminate any unused splitter ports. Check all of your cabling. Make sure every coax connection is tight. Tug on each cable while holding the end to ensure the connectors are snug on the cable. Ensure that no center leads have been accidentiallyh smashed in such a way as to not make good contact. Check for RG-59 cable and replace with RG-6 cable. Quad-shielded RG-6 is best in general home use. RG-59 has too much signal attenuation.
Other signal related troubleshooting might include disabling any possible sources of interference like cell phones, wireless devices, routers, phones, etc. All of which while not necessarily in the sub-1MHz band, can generate signal harmonics that possibly could interfere with certain frequencies in the sub-1MHz cable domain.
If you’ve got a really long run of cable with a lot of splits, it might be necessary to use a signal amp. If so, get a good one and place it as close to the cable drop as feasible. Err on the side of not using any amps first though as they can also introduce problems and a lot of times are used unnecessarily.
Well, there’s your first homework assignment!
Speaking of calibration… Here’s a new VT25 review from Kevin Miller, formerly Cnet. Hopefully, Panasonic can fix this in a new firmware.
http://www.tweaktv.com/quick-looks/panasonic-tc-p58vt25-3dtv-quick-review-best-hdtv-ever-made.html
[quote=”Matt”]
I have to say that’s way more affordable than I thought it would be… I know the pro stuff is $1000+I’ve been interested in getting something for real calibration (not just by eye) and not the junk marketed to home users like the DataColor Spyder3TV.
I’m curious how/why is that colorimeters drift? and what can be done about it?
[/quote]I don’t know exactly why the drift, but I think it has something to do with the filters inside a colorimeter that change characteristics over time due to humidity and temperature changes. As I understand it, spectroradiometers do not have this same issue, but of course are more expensive. My meter came with dessicant, so I just seal it up in a ziploc with it and hope it helps knowing that in a few years, I may need to think more about the accuracy of it at that time.
The i1 Display colorimeters have advantages in price/accuracy ratio, low-light sensitivity, measurement speed and are temperature-compensated.
I bought one because it seemed strange to purchase a $2k display and not spend an extra $150 on a meter to get things more accurate, especially seeing as how HTPC is my source and who knows what’s going on with driver changes/video card changes/software changes… The fact that I could also use it for ICC profiling on my PC displays was an added bonus.
[quote=”Mikinho”]
[quote=”swoon”]
The X-rite Eye-one Display LT. It is spec’d to be accurate to .02 cd/m2 and .008 ftL is above that.Katzmaier definitely has a more sensitive meter, but I don’t think that could explain the variation at play here as I am not alone in these lower readings. The HDTV Shootout held at Value Electronics was performed by ISF calibrators with very sensitive meters. HDGuru who also has a more sensitive meter measured .009 ftL, but these are all 58″ panels.
[/quote]Thanks, I was just curious as I’ve been researching different spectrophotometers and colorimeters to invest it.
I was looking at the X-Rite EODIS2 Eye-One Display 2.
[/quote]I’m not sure exactly what the Display 2 offers over the LT. It has something to do with the X-rite software specifically though and not the meter itself. I have been able to use the LT to generate icc profiles using the included software as well as calibrate my C8000 10pt. grayscale and CMS using the free ColorHCFR software.
The downside to colorimeters is that they do tend to drift over time. In a few years, you could always buy a new one or profile against a spectrophotometer.
[quote=”Mikinho”]
@swoon, what meter do you use?
[/quote]The X-rite Eye-one Display LT. It is spec’d to be accurate to .02 cd/m2 and .008 ftL is above that.
Katzmaier definitely has a more sensitive meter, but I don’t think that could explain the variation at play here as I am not alone in these lower readings. The HDTV Shootout held at Value Electronics was performed by ISF calibrators with very sensitive meters. HDGuru who also has a more sensitive meter measured .009 ftL, but these are all 58″ panels.
[quote=”babgvant”]
[quote=”swoon”]If that’s what he measured, I am surprised. Of course, it is surprising that PC Mag review says it has Kuro blacks as well. Perhaps there is some panel variance at play, firmware bug, phospors not aged enough, etc.
[/quote]
Might be a difference in test equipment. My 2 cents – both are excellent panels 🙂
[/quote]It’s possible, although even .008 ftL is within the spec of my meter. It is also known that the 50″ C8000 is made on a different line than the 58″/63″ sizes, so perhaps this is an explanation for the difference.
I agree that it is like splitting hairs when looking at either VT25 or C8000.
[quote=”Skirge01″]
It’s not in the original article, but in the [url=http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20018722-1.html]update[/url] (posted 5 replies up).[quote][b]The bottom line[/b]
Despite the near doubling of MLL on the VT25 and G20 we’ve measured so far, both still exhibit some of the best overall black level performance available on the market today. In order of “blackest” initial black, the other 2010 plasmas in our lab at press time include the Samsung PN50C7000 ([b]0.017 MLL[/b]), Samsung PN50C8000 (0.019), and LG PX950 (0.030). All of these numbers are higher (worse) than our estimated “final” MLL of either Panasonic panel.[/quote][/quote]
Thanks.
[quote=”babgvant”]
The “0.017” number is from the CNET article.
[/quote]Can you point me towards the section where this number is? I can’t seem to find it when searching the article.
If that’s what he measured, I am surprised. Of course, it is surprising that PC Mag review says it has Kuro blacks as well. Perhaps there is some panel variance at play, firmware bug, phospors not aged enough, etc.
I can only report what my panel has done and that is that the mll has gone down slightly from .011 ftL to .008 ftL as the panel has aged.
[quote=”autoboy”]
Good to know that the black levels are still good on the Panny. But, I’m really not happy with knowing that my 2009 model will continue to get worse. Still, I don’t expect it to get much worse than Samsung’s 0.017
[/quote]I’m not sure where you have got that measurement from, but my C8000 measures .008 ftL with 60Hz and .011 ftL with 24Hz 4:4. Other C8000 owners have performed similar readings in the range of .007 – .009 ftL. D-nice also has said the C8000 measured in at .007 – .008 ftL at the HDTV shootout at Value Electronics.
My C8000 does buzz like all plasmas, but it is only audible if I put my ear up to the glass. It is inaudible a foot away.
Pretty amazing. I never knew anyone was doing something like this.
http://news.cnet.com/8301-17938_105-20016466-1.html
Looks like we’ll finally get a CNET review on the PNC8000.
August 31, 2010 at 1:38 pm in reply to: Review: Ceton InfiniTV 4 Quad CableCARD Tuner – Part I #27241Mikinho, regarding the up to 60 second time for the tuner to be available, you stated:
[quote=”Mikinho”]
Yes the ATI DCT has the same limitation. It is required by OCUR tuners.
[/quote]What exactly is going on during this time? Is it waiting for some specific signal that gets broadcast periodically to know that it is authenticated? If that is the case, I guess there’s nothing Ceton can do to improve the response.
I was told today that the 1st batch of 3000 is supposed to all ship by Sept. 30th. A new production run is scheduled to begin in October. Ordering now might get a unit from the initial production run, but don’t count on it. Based on this information, it’s probably safe to say that the Ceton tuner won’t be in stock on retailer shelves until late this year at the earliest.
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