Shopping for a new HDTV– plasma vs. LED LCD

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    That is a great guide. I have a question…  I am assuming it wouild be best to calibrate the display as described w/ a standalone DVD/BluRay player and to then calibrate your HTPCs GPU with the now correctly callibrated display?

    Aaron Ledger

    I think it depends on your goals and configuration. Ideally, you would have a separate calibration for each input. In practice, this may not be ideal because you might be using an AVR to switch inputs or the display don’t have input modes to handle them that are adequate (or even there). What I mean by that is it might be possible to have a “Movie” mode for one source and “Night” mode for another (or whatever your displayis capable of). This would only be possible if your display had multiple viewing modes that were acceptable.

    If we assume one single mode and switching by AVR, then you may want to do as you suggest. It probably results in the least amount of comprimise. It is probably difficult/impossible though to achieve the same exact response on the display to both sources especially if using RGB on the PC output coupled with YCbCr on the CE equipment due to the conversions required. You might be best off trying to maintain the same colorspace output across all sources (e.g. YCbCr).


    Yes, the errors would add together but I don’t think there would be any way to eliminate that.  I have both my HPTCs set for YCbCr pixel format and did a rough calibration with the files mentioned in your guide.  This is much deeper since it is setting the correct color temp which is something I have not been able to do yet.  The sensors mentioned in the other guide; one isn’t available anymore (atleast not on Amazon) and the other is showing open box only, any suggestions for sensors?

    Aaron Ledger

    I have the X-rite i1 Display 2 (same as Display LT), but I believe that has been discontinued recently and may be harder to find. It is a good meter for the price (measures fairly quickly, can go to fairly low luminance levels, is compatible with Color HCFR software as well as other packages and can also produce color profiles for PC monitors). Being a colorimeter, it will lose some accuracy over time. It isn’t nearly as accurate as pro level meters, but then again, it doesn’t cost thousands of dollars either.  The i1 Display Pro appears to be the new model that is similar to the Display 2/LT.


    I will just have to bite the USB connector and pony up the money I guess.


    Aaron,  I alligned both my TVs last night, and what a difference it made.  My Sharp LED-LCD before alligning was putting out so much blue it was off the chart.  Once alligned all the colors look so much better.  My LG LCD has an expert mode that lets you adust the color ballance every 10%, so I did.  The data set I got after that allignment shows that btween 20% and 100% my deltaE is below 1!!  After Alligning both w/ the BluRay test patterns I used the test patterns mentioned on this sites guide and set the bightness and contrast properly on the HTPCs. Yes it cost $250> but the results I think are well worth it.

    Aaron Ledger

    That’s great. What meter did you get?

    The problem you will find now is looking at every display that isn’t calibrated! Don’t forget, you can also use the meter for creating color profiles for your desktop or laptop PCs as well.


    I ended up getting a used Eye1 since the Spyder doesn’t seem to be available anymore.  No software, just the sensor but I downloaded what I needed from their website.  & yes watching the hockey games @ my friend’s house will be annoying, but I can always allign their TV for them and my dad’s and my sister’s etc….


    [quote=Aaron Ledger]

    The problem you will find now is looking at every display that isn’t calibrated!


    I always have to “fix” (by eye of course :)) the TV when we stay at hotels. Drives me crazy otherwise.

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